Thursday, July 13, 2006


There she is, the stunning Asakusa Weekly Mansion Complex as viewed from the street below! I'm in room 520, but you can see me on the rooftop, arms spreadeagle, threatening to jump. Don't let the curved, pod-shaped balconies fool you, there is actually no way to leave your cell other than through the keycard locked door.

The dramatic triangle-shaped gate that leads to the entrance of my housing complex (maybe the drama is all in the lighting).

Donna Donna's Hot Delivery Pasta is located on the first floor of my housing complex. I'll have to order hot pasta from here before I leave Japan. It'll be fun to give the delivery guy a break - he'll only have to ride the elevator up five floors.

Here is the view out of my prison cell window.

A somewhat dark veiw of my entire broom closet room. Actually, it is more like living in a hallway.

Here in the entrance area to my broom closet. They really picked a great place for the fire extinguisher didn't they? It is right at head level. I can't wait for the night when I hit my head on it during a trip to the bathroom and spray foam all over my room.

Here is my sink and fridge built into the wall right next to the front door. No matter how gently I turn the water on, I always manage to get this entire area sopping wet.

Here is my bathroom - just big enough for me to fit in. Even when placed in its highest poition, the shower head is still too short for me (and I'm 5'4").

Here is my window, ten inch TV, 1980s phone, microwave, and kleenex box. The cabinet on the right (which used to house my singular bowl and teapot) is the only thing that resembles storage space in my room. I have managed to cram 3/4 if my clothes into it.

Here is my bed. It takes up most of the room.

Wednesday, July 12, 2006

Kuramae (蔵前)

Within Tokyo there is an area called Asakusa and within Asakusa there is a smaller area called Kuramae. Kuramae is where I live. This area is about ten minutes walk on Edo Street from the "downtown"-style food joints and souvenir shops near the famous Kaminarimon Gate. Asakusa is more traditionally Japanese than the bustling metropolitan streets of Shibuya or Shinjuku. However, the downtown area of Asakusa does have its fair share of tourists. My area however is mostly home to large coporate buildings (and my housing complex of course!).

Below are some pictures from the area right around my broom closet building.

B.E.W.

Here is just one of the many neon signs for the large kabushiki-gaisha (corporations) that call my area of Asakusa home. This one is for Kikkoman Soy Sauce.

Here is the bridge that leads to my broom closet, the Umaya Bridge. There are several different bridges that cross the river.

The Sumida River during the day. You can see the golden mug-shaped Asahi Beer skyscraper in the background, to the right of the Asakusa Bridge.

Here is the river lit up at night.

As with Kyoto, homeless people live by the underpass next to the river, very close to my housing complex. I gave a homeless man the sweet bean and curry rolls that I received as a parting gift from the Enka show filming.

Here is the outside to a public bathroom next to the police box on one side of the Sumida River Bridge. The male faces mark the little boy's room and vice-versa. Nifty huh?

In case I ever get thirsty at night, I can go to Bar Bonzo which is ten feet from my housing complex. When I looked in the window, it seemed to be all businessmen from my Weekly Mansion though. No females!

Ban-Dai

My new home in Asakusa is located within walking distance from Ban-Dai's headquarters. For those who don't know, Ban-Dai Entertainment is responsible for just about every beloved Japanese character - such as the Power Rangers, Tamagotchi, Gundam, and many many more! Nowadays, Ban-Dai makes all sorts of TV shows, music, toys, and videogames.

Judging from the signs written in Japanese and the locked doors, the headquarters is not open to the public. However, there are life-size statues of many of Ban-Dai's most famous characters on the street outside the massive skyscraper. I stood in line next to the Japanese five-year-olds tugging on their parents' sweaters and took pictures of all the characters (though I didn't know who they all were).

One of my new co-worker friends from Columbia that I ate lunch with the other day, Nakashima-san (who said she was 41 but looked 25), randomly brought up using the "I am slime" form of Japanese, how she "humbly" produced virtually every "mediocre" Gundam motion picture in Japan during her decade of work as a Ban-Dai movie producer.

I told Nakashima-san that I used to love watching Power Rangers when I was little and bought all of the toys. She told me that this year marks the 30th Anniversary of the "Ranger" series in Japan. The series is still in production at Ban-Dai with a new movie coming out this summer. The latest series is entitled, "Bohken-Jah" or "The Adventure Rangers." There is always a "Jah" sound in each series title that comes from the Japanese pronounciation of the English word "ranger." Regarding "Rangers," the anime and TV music division of Columbia is working jointly with Bandai to put out a four-disc set featuring 30 years of "Ranger" theme music this summer.

Enjoy the pics below!

B.E.W.

Logo marking the headquarters of Ban-Dai Entertainment.

Written Ban-Dai logo on the building.

The Masked Rider!

Anpan Man! Anpan is a roll stuffed with sweet red-bean.

A battle robot from Gundam!

Cinnamoroll! Any relation to cinnamon rolls?

Ultraman!

Here is the cute Ban-Dai character Primopuel or "Primo" for short. He is a robotic doll that can converse with the vocabulary of a five year old. Needless to say, Primo is a popular purchase with lonely grandma wannabes throughout Japan.

Here is one of the frogs from the children's TV show Frog Style.

Doraemon!

New Transportation

Below are some pics from my new train station of choice, Kuramae Station. This station is within 5 minutes walking distance from my new home (depending on how many don't walk signs you hit). I just take one line daily, the Oedo Line, which runs every 8 minutes or so and gets me to Roppongi for my work in under a half-hour without any transfers.

Since I live in the industrial area of Asakusa, my town (and train station) are empty on the weekends. The weekdays is another story however. You have no doubt seen the famous videos of businessmen being shoved into packed subway cars with giant polls. My train line isn't *quite* that bad, but close!

I wanted to take a picture to post for comparison this morning, but I was smashed in a block of people and literally could not reach my pocket to get my cell phone. The amazing thing is that people can sleep, read, and eat while swallowed up in a mass or people, and everyone gets on and off without any injury.

B.E.W.

B.E.W.

The empty Kuramae Train Station sign!

The empty train station entrance.

The empty train station.

The empty train platform.

The empty train.

Giant fries outside a McDonald's in Shibuya.

Once again, here is a shot of the famous Kaminarimon or Thunder Gate near my new house in Asakusa. This shot was taken at night so it is slightly different from the previous one.

Once again, here is my place of work, "Columbia Music Entertainment" in Roppongi.

Sayonara Murata

If you’ve studied any Japanese, you have likely learned that “konnichiwa” means hello and “sayonara” means goodbye. WRONG! Konnichiwa is actually a mid-day greeting for people that you haven’t said “good morning” to and / or interacted with already. Likewise, Japanese people almost never say “Sayonara” as we westerners say “bye” or “see ya later.” Rather, they reserve the phrase for when one is leaving an environment and is not likely to return for a long period of time.

Below you can see pictures of me posing peace sign, Asian-style with my host mother Misako and my host sister Nami. You will notice that these are the same two people I posted pictures of months ago, and that there are no pictures of me with a dorky look on my face posing next to my host father or host brother. This is because, true to Murata family form, they were not around or willing to participate in my going away festivities. I find it fitting that things ended with much the same sentiment as they began. As I left the house for the train station, I saw my host brother Daisuke. He mumbled goodbye as he jetted off to meet his girlfriend. I didn’t say a proper goodbye to my host father.

Pictures lie. Things always look good in pictures, once people have had time to think of that funny thought to get them smiling, or put their arm begrudgingly around that hated coworker while repeating “it’s just for the Christmas card, it’s just for the Christmas card.” On my final night in Kyoto, my host mother and I talked for three hours in Japanese about life for Japanese women when the camera gets flipped off.

It turns out that lots of middle aged wives in Japan hate their husbands according to my host mother. At first I thought the choice of the word “hate” or “despise” was simply lost in translation, as I was well aware that Japanese families don’t use expressions of affection and love nearly as frequently as we do in the west. Nope, upon further clarification, it turns out that my host mother really meant “hate”. She laughed, the words coming out of her mouth as she scrubbed the serving platters from the night’s sushi. She was quick to point out that most husbands don’t cheat or act violent towards their wives; rather, the couples are simply “mukandoh” or have no feelings towards each other at all.

My host mother asked me if I knew the term “sexless.” Sexless in Japanese refers to a common situation in which male company workers are so busy with their jobs and their obligatory overtime on weekdays and weekends that there is no time for sex with their wives. She told me that this was a common situation for herself and many of her friends. She illustrated by holding up a strainer and pouring water through it. “Initially if you’re a wife you pour in lots of love, but, it falls out. See? So, eventually, you give up trying.”

One of my host mother’s friends goes as far as to not want to sit on the same toilet as her husband or go in the same bathwater. Also, this wife feels great stress when he comes down to the kitchen, and will often stand behind the counter and clean the dishes while he eats his dinner alone at the table.

Another wife from my host mother’s dog park was sick in the hospital and her husband didn’t even visit her. My host mom was quick to point out that this same husband in question visited his coworker in the hospital the minute he fell ill.

Indeed, my own host mother told me of times when she prepared huge meals for all my host father’s work colleagues and never received as much as a thank you. “Sometimes you feel like a slave,” she said.

I asked the only question that was swirling around in my head: Why do Japanese women put up with these situations if they are so unhappy? My host mother replied that if we were in America, women like this would probably get divorced without a second thought; however, Japanese women of my host mother’s generation choose to “gaman suru” or persevere instead of divorce. This is especially true if the family has children and a stable income and way of life. “It’s just the way it is. It’s the old way of Japanese women,” she said with a faint smile. “Maybe the new generation is changing - I don’t know.”

At this point my host mother’s throat was dry from talking, so the two of us shared a melon-flavored cream soda with a happy-faced cartoon watermelon on the front. We both sipped the foamy green soda in silence – there was nothing left to say.

B.E.W.

Tuesday, July 11, 2006


Me with my host sis Nami - we're both sporting Japanese-style haircuts. Who looks more Japanese?

Me with my host mom Misako, taken during my last night in Kyoto.

Sorry Sorry Sorry

Bowing deeply,

I'm sorry it is taking so long for an update. As you can imagine, starting work has been both amazingly exciting and amazingly draining. Add that to drinking parties each night so far and my time quickly fades away. I have lots of pictures and stories I want to share with you (such as the proper etiquette for when you are backstage at a concert in Japan and get introduced to waves of music stars), and I promise you that it will happen SOON. I just need time to type. I hope to have an update soon.

Sorry for the delay, please check back in the next couple days!

B.E.W.

Saturday, July 08, 2006

I'm in Tokyo!

Hi all!

Just wanted to let you know that I have arrived safe and sound in Tokyo and am writing this from the un-comfort of my Asakusa mansion. I won't spoil the fun of explaining all the new stuff to you now; rather, I will do it in my upcoming update with pictures!

For anyone who feels so inclined, here is my new living and contact information:

Address (in English and Japanese):

Ben Whaley
Room #520
1-21-10 Honjo, Sumida-ku, Tokyo,
130-0004 Weekly Mansion Asakusa
JAPAN

ベンホェイリー様
520号室
〒103-0004 東京都墨田区本所1-21-10ウィークリーマンション浅草

Phone Numbers:

Mansion Front Desk (in case of emergency): 03-3626-2443
Ben's Room: 03-3626-3811
Ben's Cell: 090-3268-7024

If you are writing or sending me stuff (wink wink), you can write my address in English, as long as you make sure to write JAPAN in English as well. Since I cannot receive international phone calls from abroad on my room phone (I can only receive domestic calls within Japan), the best way to reach me directly is still via email and my cell number (these items haven't changed).

Till next time,

B.E.W.

Friday, July 07, 2006

Moving Day! (引っ越すの日)

Hi all,

After two and a half months living on Kitashirakawa Street in Kyoto, tomorrow morning I will head to Kyoto Station and leave on a bullet train bound for Tokyo. Japan has a great service that allows you to ship your luggage and parcels anywhere in the country for a low price. Thus, I sent my three bags ahead to Tokyo this afternoon, because, you DO NOT want to ride the crowded Japanese trains with more than a backpack on your person. I made that mistake the first time I came to Japan and almost died from the stress of lugging huge suitcases in and out of the trains as the doors closed on me.

I hope to update you all soon regarding my final nights with the Muratas, as well as introduce you all to my new Apartment (Mansion) in Asakusa.

See you soon!

B.E.W.

P.S. - I have removed my short-lived poll about this blog because I have decided that things will continue as they always have with regard to the pictures and content I post on A White Boy in Japan once I make the move to Tokyo.

Wednesday, July 05, 2006


Here is the sign for Neo Mart, the place where all the weird stuff below comes from. The sign has some funny Engrish on it too. Shops like Neo Mart and Don Quixote all specialize in selling really weird stuff. There are TONS of shops like this in the Akihabara area of Tokyo for all the Otaku, but this is the first one I have seen in Kyoto. These shops are the Spencer's Gifts of Japan - If anyone wants a hizamakura or breast towel as a souvenir, please kindly let me know.

Here is the "hizamakura" or "lap pillow." When the fatigue from a hard day at the office or a tough night finishing that last term paper has set in, there's nothing better than resting your head on a nice soft pillow.

A giant Buzz Lightyear. To infinity, and BEYOND!

One of the many different maid, nurse, yellow duck, and school girl costumes that you can buy for use when the kids go on their next sleepover party. Getting your wife or girlfriend to put it on however is a different battle entirely.

Here is the "breast towel." After you are done taking a shower, you can dry your face off with it.

I always wanted to be a daikon radish for Halloween but could never find a costume that properly showed off my boyish figure.

North Korean Missiles!


At approx. 5 AM this morning, North Korea launched 6 missiles (5 mid-range weapons and 1 long-range weapon). All of the missiles landed closer to North Korean / Russian territory than they did to Japan. The long range missile which was touted as being able to reach Alaska didn't fly any farther than the others. All in all, a complete failure for North Korea.

Needless to say, this event has been all over the news in Japan with government officials delivering cool but stern messages to North Korea. There is also talk of economic sanctions against North Korea. As part of the Pyongyang Agreement, North Korea agreed to a cessation of missile testing in exchange for significant economic aid from Japan. North Korea has previously said that they will consider economic sanctions as a direct act of war, but since the North Korean government already hates Japan as it is, I doubt things can get much worse. My host mom called the North Koreans "baka" or fools / idiots. That seems to be the sentiment among the Japanese people I have talked to.

Some anxious parents called the Stanford Center this morning from America, asking if we were exploded. Rest assured, we are all safe and doing very wel...LOOK OUT!!!!!

B.E.W.

Tuesday, July 04, 2006

Happy 4th of July!


Happy 4th of July to all my friends and family back in America!

I hope you all have a wonderful day! Eat lots of hotdogs and light lots of fireworks (if they are still legal anywhere in Seattle that is). You can buy fireworks here in Japan at just about any convenience store. People always light them off down by the Kamo River, though I don't think they are actually legal!

As you are enjoying the festivities, I will be in my room writing my last term paper. Soon I will be done...

3 more days till the move to Tokyo!

B.E.W.

Monday, July 03, 2006

Hair Cut (さんぱつ)

I wouldn’t leave the salon until I got her number. With a lot of time and little patience…BINGO! Shiori Yamano, 075-254-3434. Too bad it is on a red business card that gives me a 50% discount if I successfully get any of my gaijin buddies to utilize her skills as a stylist. Oh well…I can dream can’t I?

Located right above the 24-hour massage parlor called “Relaxing Hands,” which itself is located right above a Starbucks, is Hair & Make NY NY. The NY NY could very well stand for New York, New York; I wouldn’t put it past them.

I had made a reservation the afternoon before when I was turned down for my desired cut due to a lack of space. When I came back in the following day, I was directed to sit on a big white cylinder and wait for my stylist. I flipped through magazines, looking at all the different Japanese hairstyles. After looking through enough magazines and seeing people on the street, I now understand that all male Japanese hair styles are variations on one of three basic types.

1) Cousin It! - This is the style for the man who likes the occasional haircut once every three years. Taking a cue from everyone’s favorite walking Pantene Pro-V advertisement from the Addams Family, the Cousin It style involves growing a thick weeping willow of hair that dwarfs one’s eyes, ears, neck, and lower face. This hairstyle is almost always seen in the traditional Japanese black and is popular both with middle aged and elderly men. If you approach a male sporting the Cousin It style and wish to speak with them, they will almost certainly have to part their sea of hair with their hands while answering in order for the words to escape.

2) Freshly Ravaged! – This is the style for the man who likes to show up to any social event looking like he just exited a street fight in which a disgruntled drunk named Wataru tore out fistfuls of his hair. Unlike the Cousin It style, the Freshly Ravaged style may be treated auburn or blonde, so as to give the impression that you are not in fact a Japanese person, but rather a foreigner who has just had fistfuls of his hair torn out.

3) The Sky’s the Limit! – This is the style for the man who dreams to recreate the 10-foot tall vertical hairstyles from his favorite anime Dragon Ball Z. With The Sky’s the Limit, massive amounts of hair wax are applied to spike hair vertically into what most resembles a garden hedge, or glob and mold it together into a giant hardened pyramid shape.

Glancing at the patrons, their faces wrapped in towels like the invisible man, a burst of white light, then, Shiori - feathers from her angel wings fluttering down in the soft sunlight. I’ll get this out of the way right now; my hair stylist Shiori Amano was incredibly attractive by any means of comparison. I’d say she was in her mid 20s with longer auburn treated hair and an eclectic fashion utilizing the mother earth palette. She asked me how I wanted my hair and, sucking back in my dangling drool, I asked her to take it shorter and round it so it didn’t look like a cube.

Japanese haircuts give you two treatments of shampoo; one when you start, and one after they cut your hair. They lay a suffocating towel over your face during the shampoo treatment so as not to get your face wet. Another difference is in the method of haircutting. In America, my short cut would be exclusively done with buzz clippers - in Japan however, Shiori used only the scissors to cut and rip the hair, giving it a much more uneven, but stylish look. Thus, my hairstyle now most closely resembles number two on the above list, but since I have curly / wavy Jew hair when long, I can’t really recreate Japanese styles too well.

During both shampoo cycles, Shiori and I talked (sort of). I found it difficult to chit chat about the sites I had been to in Kyoto and my overseas studies with the water rushing in my ears and a towel over my face stifling my breathing. This didn’t stop Shiori’s barrage of kind-hearted questions though.

The cut itself was mostly a wonderful opportunity for me to stare at Shiori in the huge styling mirror. I was so enraptured by the tree bark brown sarong wrapped around her shapely hips that I almost inadvertently purchased the additional $10 eyebrow plucking treatment. I caught myself right as she was coming over with the tweezers, blurting out “I don’t need it!” like a patient suffering from Tourette’s. She frowned. She asked me if it was because of the money. I told her that because I always wear glasses, no one would be able to properly appreciate my shapely new brows. I lied – It was ALL about the money!

After my cut, the massage section commenced. It turns out that this would be an extra $20, bringing my grand total to $65 for the whole styling experience, but I would have gladly emptied my coin purse for the possibility of prolonging the experience of Shiori molding my face like modeler’s clay. I had a bit of trouble with the initial scalp massage due to the inclination of my chair. When my asthma wheeze kicked in, Shiori asked me with a worried tone if she was hurting me. I explained to her that it was just asthma and she seemed genuinely concerned. It was probably all an act.

After the scalp massage, Shiori showed me a container filled with a puffy white water and explained to me that this was all the dandruff and skin shavings from my scalp. She stopped before continuing the sales pitch with, “And for just three easy payments of 399 Yen you can…”

Next, an effeminate looking Japanese 20-something sporting Sky hair came over and pounded on my shoulders with his limp fists. This felt good and was over too soon. Before you could say “Would you like the optional ear cleaning treatment,” Shiori had raked wax into my hair and I was done.

I paid the bill and Shiori rode down with me in the elevator. I half assumed she was going to come home with me, but when the elevator doors opened, only I got out.

Gone like she came, my clipping angel, bathed in white light, gliding on the wind.

B.E.W.

Sunday, July 02, 2006


Here is my hair before the cut. I don't look quite as much like Wolverine as I usually do with this length - I look more like a mad scientist I think.

Here is my hair after the $65 deep cleaning, cut, and scalp massage. Do I look Japanese?

Here is a crane game (called UFO Game here in Japan) where you can win giant boxes of Kit-Kat. From green tea to coffee to melon flavored (and a hundred different types in between), Japanese people are obsessed with "breakin' of a piece" of their favorite bar. Part of the reason why Kit-Kat is the most popular chocolate candy in Japan has to do with its name. In Japanese, Kitto means "surely" or "certainly" and Katsu means "to win." Put them together and you get "Kitto Katsu" or, "You are sure to win!" Because of the dual meaning, these chocolates are given as good luck presents for a whole variety of events.

Here is a funny sign at the entrance to a bowling place downtown. I want to break down the pins and get hot communication with you!

While on the topic of hair, here is a Japanese girl with a mountainous afro I spotted downtown. It looked real as far as I could tell.