A closeup of the Asahi Beer Hall. There was some sort of event going on so I wasn't let inside. The nearby Asahi Beer Garden Restaurant was also all booked up with patrons. The yellow squiggle ontop is supposed to be a flame that represents the "burning heart of Asahi Beer." Or the burning acid reflux you get when you down too many pitchers.

The Great Cell Phone Caper

As I learned firsthand yesterday, these days it is hard to get a cell phone in Japan. It seems that a few years back the Japanese government, in a state of ever vigilant readiness against international terrorism, enacted a law that bars foreigners from purchasing cell phones of any type if they are unable to produce valid Japanese identification.

If my previous run in with the Asakusa police two years ago is anything to go by, the reasoning behind this is that foreigners will use said cell phones to order bomb making materials that they will then assemble and cart around in their backpacks while returning to the Asakusa Weekly Mansion in the dead of night.

But I digress.

In short, if you are staying in Japan for under 90 days and do not possess a government issued Alien Registration Card (外国人登録証明書), you’re fresh out of luck. My trip to Akihabara had me visiting stores for all three major cell phone distributors and being turned away at each.

As I had expected, I also learned that my old DoCoMo cell phone (neat as it is) is basically a glorified brick. Since DoCoMo doesn’t employ any prepaid cell technology, there is no way to resurrect my phone from the dead save for initiating a new contract, which presents even more logistical problems than trying to get the prepaid variety.

All set to write a Japanese friend with my tail between my legs, I decided to end my search with a trip to the local SoftBank shop in Asakusa just for kicks. SoftBank seemed like the better choice for a prepaid phone since I learned that AU (the other major distributor) denies customers purchasing prepaid phones both answering machine and text messaging services.

Here’s how the ultimate heist went down. Actually, that’s too dramatic of a setup for what follows. Since the visitor’s sticker posted in my passport shows the default of a full 90 days stay on it, I realized that there was no way to prove that I was only staying in the country for one month instead of three and thus ineligible to buy a phone. That is, until asked for the mandatory government issued registration card that long term residents must all carry.

When asked to produce it within minutes upon arrival, I basically had no option but to lie in Japanese. I told the kindhearted salesman that I had just arrived and was staying for 90 days but hadn’t yet received my ID from the ward office. I told him I was doing company interviews and wanted to buy the cell as soon as possible. Most of this stuff was actually true, except for the length of stay part.

He had to call headquarters and ask them if they could make an exception for the nice gaijin who can speak Japanese. Overhearing the conversation, the bigwigs on the other end told him to obtain every imaginable snippet of information from my passport that he could for identity verification purposes.

Here is when, once again, I was saved by my expired Japanese visa from two years past. Just like the customs officer, the cell phone store clerk Ishikawa-san stared at the passport page in confusion. Never mind the fact that the page clearly shows that the visa expired two years ago. I just kept quiet. He actually read the visa out loud to himself in both English and Japanese. He read over the expiration year of 2006 but it just didn’t register. This is likely because it was written in roman numerals and not using the Japanese calendar and Heisei year format.

This expired visa is like a skeleton key for the entire city. The next thing I’m planning to do is go to the Imperial Palace waving my expired visa around and claim to be a foreign dignitary.

Suffice it to say, within the hour I walked away with my new pre-paid cell phone (you can see pictures down below). The entire package (with the phone and prepaid card itself) was around 85 dollars, a steal compared to the multiple hundreds of dollars required for an extended rental.

In many respects this phone is nicer than my more expensive contract model from DoCoMo. Since it’s a 3G phone, it may be able to work in the U.S. with a new SIM Card (I’m unsure). The phone has lots of features including a camera, multimedia video, internet, etc., though I’m unsure if it charges your card for using these items.

In any event, I’m glad that I was able to put my Japanese to use as a liar. I’ve now broken the law. On the bright side, when the cops stop me with my backpack full of explosives, the cell phone will be the least of my worries.

B.E.W.

Here's my new SoftBank phone in all its thin jet-black glory. I've named this phone Mentaiko after the pinkish spicy fish roe I love so much. This name would have made more sense were my phone the red color that I originally desired.

This phone is SUPER thin! I think it's slimmer than the Motorola RAZR.

A comparison shot with my new SoftBank phone (left) and old DoCoMo phone (right). They actually look fairly similar. The prepaid phone also came in my desired color of red, but it was out of stock. Since I was breaking the law to begin with, I decided not to push my luck on the colors.

The breakfast of champions!

"I love the smell of natto in the morning!"

Akiba Snapshots

Here are a few snapshots taken in Akihabara. I visited the electronics district yesterday as part of my "Great Cellphone Caper" (you can read about it up above). Since my priority was obtaining a cellphone, I didn't really look around a lot and check out the new items. I plan to do that on a return trip.

Enjoy.

B.E.W.

Here is a generic shot of Akihabara (or Akiba), Tokyo's world famous electronics district. I saw many tourists snapping similar pictures while looking around in awe. It's shots like these that capture the cramped, vibrant, overstimulating views for which Tokyo is famous.

Pretty much the greatest piece of electronic entertainment ever forged by human hands.

Yodobashi Camera in Akiba is one of the largest and most famous electronics stores in the city. One thing that caught my eye while wandering through the floors was this! I present to you the world's largest plasma screen television. This Panasonic VIERA measures a whopping 103 inches! I've already ordered two for my room.

In U.S. dollars the price comes to around $52,765.

Here is some sort of theme cafe straight out of Miyazaki's "Heidi: Girl of the Alps." I didn't have a chance to go inside and sample a sweet glass of mountain goat milk.

Asakusa Pics

Here is a random collection of pics I snapped while wandering around Asakusa's main drag. Please to maybe enjoy by honorably setting your eyes on them?

Thank you so much.

B.E.W.

How much is that doggy in the window? One thing that has stayed the same in the area around my housing complex is the shop across the street that keeps their pair of pugs in the window for all the world to see. Sometimes our furry friends also like having special doggy relations for all the world to see.

Here are some origami rats for the year 2008. This is from a store that specializes in handmade paper decorations of various types.

Here are some origami Hello Kitty on display.

Another type of feline; a giant "Show me the money" cat.

In a fortuitous turn of events, I found myself walking in front of the Kaminarimon gate at the exact time the animatronic clock show was starting in front of the Asakusa tourism center. Look at how many people were waiting to enjoy the show. They should charge admission.

Here is the clock in front of the tourist center with the door already shut. This picture was actually taken after the show finished. Evidently the show lasted around 4 minutes.

The duo on the left-hand side are sporting a neat getup. I want a swan hat! Are those available in the gift shop?

Here is the main animatronic diorama making up the center of the Asakusa tourist center clock show. The group is shown hoisting up a mikoshi (portable shinto shrine) in true festival fashion.

Here's a closeup of the center diorama. Look, I'm represented! I'm the gaijin lifting the mikoshi with the blond hair!

The dolls to the right-hand side are holding up some sort of dragon kite thingy.

Here is my application and event information packet from Capcom. I love that the Japanese can predict when the mail will arrive to the exact minute. Japanese postmen must practice clairvoyance. Despite the comedy of errors that was me incorrectly reporting the housing complex's zip code, and the mailing person at Capcom jumping the gun and sending me the packet without first obtaining my room number, I still received the materials safe and sound. Again, it must be the clairvoyance thing.

Since I have to temporarily sit in my room and wait for my delivery from Capcom to arrive, here are a few pictures I snapped this morning while walking around trying to find a dry cleaners (which I was ultimately successful at!).

You may remember that my housing complex is located within walking distance from Ban-Dai's headquarters. I love taking pictures of the different character statues they have on display. Seems like they have added a bunch from their popular Tamagotchi (たまごっち) electronic key chain toys.

This flagship yellow Tamagotchi welcomes you to the company!

B.E.W.

Here is the main display out front of Ban-Dai, featuring the dude from One Piece and a new arcade game just put into production.

Mario, the dog from Animal Crossing, and Keroro! Ban-Dai makes a wide variety of toys and figures for many companies including Nintendo.

The first of three Tamagotchi critters on display at Ban-Dai.

Tamagotchi number two! This guy (girl?) was my favorite of the bunch.

A cute flowery Tamagotchi.

Some things have changed in the area surrounding my beloved Asakusa Weekly Mansion since I have been here last. One new addition is this store dedicated entirely to selling different types of ribbons.

Or...this giant new Karaoke parlor directly across the street for instance. Guess this will be the place to go when I want to roll out of bed and get my song on.

The Adventure Begins...

Hi all! Just a quick post to say that I arrived safe and sound at my Asakusa Weekly Mansion in Tokyo, Japan. It is a little after 10 PM here. The good news is that I succeeded in staying up relatively late so as to counteract some of the effects of jetlag. The bad news is that my brain is literally mush.

Aside from some lukewarm coffee being spilled on my pants by an apologetic flight attendant, my trip from Seattle went without a hitch. They have a new machine at Narita Airport now that fingerprints you and takes your picture for immigration and counter-terrorist purposes if you are a non-citizen. The best part is that when it takes your picture it superimposes it over what looked to be a psychedelic colored Hello-Kitty background, so it effectively kills all the seriousness of the anti-terrorism measure.

Was I getting my mug shot taken or posing for one of those picture sets you’re asked to buy after finishing Splash Mountain?

My customs officer was super nice. He nearly waved me thru on my two year old expired VISA since he wasn’t really paying attention. After he stared at the thing for about two minutes he realized it was no good and mumbled some inaudible comments before giving me the high sign.

Rode the train to my apartment complex, which was definitely economical but also slow as snails. From the minute I stepped off the plane until now, I’ve pretty much been in a sort of fog. I think it’s because my internal clock is out of wack and I spent like 12 hours in transport today. I have just sort of been on autopilot.

I ran some errands tonight and ate some cheap soba, since they fed us three meals on the plane plus snacks. It finally became clear how tired I was as I found myself totally blanking out in front of a row of shampoos in the Japanese dollar store. I couldn’t tell them apart; my brain was so tired that it didn’t even want to process Japanese.

I’m going to get some rest.

Tomorrow is cell phone hunting.

More to come soon.

You can bet on that!

B.E.W.

One Week and Counting...

In one week's time I will be back in Japan, re-experiencing the luxurious comfort that only a broom closet-style room at Asakusa's Weekly Mansion can provide. If you are asking yourself why I would choose to return to such lodging after narrowly escaping with my sanity two years ago, the answer is simple...IT'S CHEAP!!!

In other news, I just found out by checking my online reservation that there was an inability to book me a window seat on my United flight to Tokyo. Thus, I'll be confined to the middle of one of those super long rows near the back of the plane for 11 hours straight. I hope for comical purposes that two immensely obese people sit on either side of me, while a screaming baby kicks my seat from behind.

Finally, I recently added a new poll feature in the right-hand column. I plan to periodically add new poll questions, so feel free to click an answer and participate. The current poll asks you to name your favorite film from master Japanese animation director Hayao Miyazaki.

Miyazaki's newest film "Ponyo on the Cliff" (崖の上のポニョ) opens this July in Japan. I very much hope to see it in my free time.

Till next time, my preparations for job interviews must continue!

B.E.W.

WE HAVE TO GO BAAAAAAAACK!!!!!

Replace the beard growth with 9 months of uncut jewfro and up until recently I bore a strikingly eerie resemblance to LOST’s Jack Shepard, rambling and screaming wildly about how I must return to the “island” I never should have left. At least I haven’t picked up my alcoholism and pill addiction yet.

After close to a year of meandering and indecisively dragging my feet on the Japan front since my college graduation, I have decided to return to Japan…well, for a little while at least.

I will be heading overseas at the end of June (the 25th to be precise) and will be staying in Japan for approximately one month. This trip for me is a decidedly different affair from my previous cultural-exchange visits, as this time I will be heading to Tokyo with the specific goal of securing a fulltime job.

(Cue dramatic music!!!)

I have my tickets for a Japanese career fair, have recently submitted my videogame music demo to Nintendo in Kyoto, and even have an interview lined up with my favorite Japanese porn company.

It should be an interesting trip.

I certainly hope you’ll join me on the blog for whatever stories and adventures happen along the way.

More to come soon!

B.E.W.

ブログの再開！

Game Blogging Start! (ピンクゴジラ)

This post is to announce that I've recently started blogging for Pink Godzilla. PG is a killer import and retro games shop in Seattle's International District. That's their super cute mascot Pinky in the photo up above.

If you're a gamer in the Seattle area, definitely don't miss the opportunity to check out this truly one-of-a-kind shop! There's simply no better place to pick up Japanese software, retro consoles, or fun gaming-related models and toys.

My first post about the Japanese-only PSP fashion software MyStylist has already been uploaded to the blog. I hope to write a few articles per week, focusing on current gaming news and Japanese gaming culture.

The Pink Godzilla gaming blog is found front and center on the store's website.

CLICK HERE

Thanks for reading!

B.E.W.

P.S. - For the time being, my articles are being posted either under the tag "matsu" by the site administrator, or under the general newbie tag "enoki." However, not all the "matsu" or "enoki" labeled blog posts are mine. I'll update again to let you all know when I get my own personal log-in for future article posting goodness!

Barefoot Gen – A MUST READ!

The above picture is reproduced from Keiji Nakazawa’s self-described “cartoon story of Hiroshima,” Barefoot Gen. I just recently finished the series and the work left such an impression on me that I simply must recommend these books to everyone I know.

Barefoot Gen (Hadashi no Gen / はだしのゲン in Japanese) is a four-part series of graphic novels that tell the autobiographical story of the atomic bombing of Hiroshima as seen through the eyes of the author as a young boy.

Like Art Spiegelman’s Pulitzer Prize winning Holocaust narrative Maus, Barefoot Gen is one of the few works in the comics medium that succeeds in honestly and humanely bearing witness to and depicting one of the signature horrors of our modern age.

To discuss the twists and turns of the plot would be a great disservice to potential readers. Suffice it to say, Barefoot Gen manages to run the gamut of emotions, often legitimately evoking laughter or tears depending on the section.

Despite the unimaginable horrors depicted in the frames on the page, the underlying message of Barefoot Gen is one of hope, peace, and optimism. However, through his prose, Nakazawa openly and honestly criticizes both the Japanese and American wartime administrations for their shared responsibility in the bombings.

Nakazawa, who has dedicated his adult life to passing on the story of A-Bomb survivors to subsequent generations, continues to write literature and movie screenplays about Hiroshima to this day. As written in an essay that follows the work, his hope is that Barefoot Gen will in some small way lead to the complete abolition of nuclear weapons in this new century.

Four separate volumes make up the complete story of Barefoot Gen. While the volumes may be a quick read, the images and characters will remain etched into your mind long after finishing. An excellent new English translation was completed just a few years ago in San Francisco. The series is readily available on Amazon.com. Also, check your local library (mine had all four volumes in circulation).

It is my personal belief that not nearly enough is done to teach and discuss the personal and global / historical ramifications of the atomic bombings of Japan in the American education system (or in America in general). As is the case with the Nazi Holocaust, there will come a time in the very near future when no living survivors of the atomic bombings remain. It is my opinion that we must keep the testimonies and experiences of survivors alive for generations to come. Barefoot Gen provides both an easily accessible and surprisingly effective entry point through which to learn more and enter into a discussion about this very important event.

Keiji Nakazawa’s Barefoot Gen is completely recommended. Please read this series! If I had my way, it would already be standard reading in every 9th grade U.S. history class across America.

B.E.W.

Zurashi Zubon (ずらしズボン)*

One nice thing about the Japanese major at Stanford is that it is small. Scratch that – it’s “intimate.” The word small conjures up images of a student huddled underneath a desk lamp, reading an ancient Japanese text in preparation for a one-on-one meeting with their professor. Come to think of it, this is a pretty accurate description of the life of a Japanese major…but I digress. I mean to emphasize that the group of professors and students in the Asian Languages Department are a close-knit bunch. We all know each other and we are all friends. I have been in Japanese class with the same group of friends throughout my four years at Stanford. This story takes place during 3rd Year Japanese class sophomore year.

The assignment from Tomiyama Sensei was to read a short article in a series about Japanese educational philosophy from our textbook and prepare an overhead transparency. We would then each use said transparency in our short individual presentations, summarizing the article’s main points for our classmates.

After two thought provoking student presentations, one on bullying in grade school and one on English language education in Japan, a third student got up to present. He placed his transparency on the overhead projector. The title was written in blue vis-à-vis pen and read “zurashi zubon.” Zurashi zubon roughly translates into “loose pants.” More specifically, pants that are so loose that they slide down past the buttocks, leaving the wearer’s underwear exposed. This is apparently a growing fad with young people in Japan, much to the chagrin of parents.

The student got only a few minutes into his introduction of zurashi zubon before he realized that he had selected his article from the wrong section of the book. I had been chuckling throughout the beginning of the presentation, but I couldn’t hold it in anymore; I burst out laughing. Something about the absurdity of two incredibly serious topics about education and one about pants finally hit me. My laughter got louder and louder, spiraling out of control.

The student giving the presentation crossed out his previous title with the same blue vis-à-vis pen and flipped to the correct section of the book, trying admirably to deliver an off-the-cuff presentation on an article he had never set eyes on before. I couldn’t do this in English, let alone in Japanese.

By this point I had removed my glasses, which were damming up the tears streaming down my face. I couldn’t stop laughing – I mean I really couldn’t stop. I hid my face as best I could behind my textbook, but somehow, like a moth to a flame, my eyes kept being drawn to the projection of the now crossed out title zurashi zubon. Every time I saw the title I re-erupted with tears of laughter.

At this point in the class, everyone had become well aware of my hysterics. I hadn’t stopped laughing for the past five minutes, and had now taken to banging on the table while gasping for air. Consequently, other students in the class started laughing at my ridiculous display. Eventually even Tomiyama Sensei started laughing, as did the student presenter. There we were, all of us, laughing like fools at something as silly as zurashi zubon. It would be a long while before our laughter would die down. I honestly don’t even remember what else was covered that day in class.

Over my years working as an office assistant and studying as a student in the Asian Languages Department, I have had many such hilarious, touching, and memorable experiences with friends and faculty. However, something about this particular memory sticks with me. I think it must be the feeling of friendship and support that can only come from a small…I mean…“intimate” major.

If you are reading this, then Ben Whaley has successfully received his B.A. with honors in Japanese. Next year Ben hopes to be living and working in Japan. He plans to wear zurashi zubon on the plane flight over.

*The preceding short story originally appeared in the 2007 DLCL commencement bulletin.

Graduation! (卒業式)

Well, I finally made it! I am now officially a college graduate. Here is a picture of me receiving my diploma from Asian Languages department chair, Professor Steven Carter.

Thank you to all the people that have encouraged and supported me throughout my college education.

This is only the beginning...

Stay Tuned!

B.E.W.

This is just to prove that I DID actually graduate! Here is my BAH in Japanese from Stanford University. It was conferred with departmental honors and distinction on Sunday June 17th, 2007.

I won the Kung-Yi Kao Prize for outstanding progress in the study of Japanese. Here is my award. I was a little surprised that my department cut me a check and sent me on my way. Don't these things usually come with a plaque?

Honors Thesis DONE! (卒論)

My senior honors thesis entitled: Why is Curly a Woman? Presentationality and American Nostalgia in the Takarazuka Revue 「どうしてカーリーは女か？宝塚歌劇におけるアメリカンノスタルジアのイメージ」is finally complete! After close to a year of hard work, the paper is printed and submitted to my department advisers.

Just for clarification, the paper was written entirely in English, though due to the subject matter, many Japanese vocabulary words, phrases, and concepts were utilized.

In a nutshell, my thesis looks at the Takarazuka adaptation of Rodgers and Hammerstein’s classic American musical Oklahoma!. More specifically, I examine how the all-female Japanese production simultaneously evokes nostalgia for images of American culture but also maintains a distinctly “presentational” (over-the-top) Japanese theatrical style.

If any readers are heading to Japan in the near future, do not miss the opportunity to see Takarazuka. I guarantee you will not be disappointed!

B.E.W.

P.S. - In recent news, my honors thesis has been nominated for university-wide awards. Maybe I'll take home academia's equivalent of the Oscar!

Happy Language Anniversary! (日本語記念日)

In light of my recent 5000th hit, I have decided to write a post about language learning.

By the time I graduate from Stanford this spring, I will have been studying Japanese for ten consecutive years. I have certainly come a long way since my first Japanese class with Ms. Morse at Eckstein Middle School in Seattle, however, every week as I meet with my current teacher Nakamura-Sensei and pour over sample test questions from the Japanese Language Proficiency Exam, I realize how far there is still to go!

My ultimate goal is to be bilingual, or as close to that as a non-native speaker can get. The Japanese have several phrases that speak to language fluency, such as the onomatopoeic word “pera pera,” or the formal word “ryūchō.” Throughout my time in Japan, I found myself telling countless people about my love of the Japanese language and my desire to speak it at a near-native level.

Half of the Japanese people I spoke to, using the word “fluency” to articulate my ultimate goal, would respond that I was already fluent in Japanese and didn’t need to study anymore. While some were undoubtedly being polite, others were genuinely serious. They really couldn’t see why I would want to continue studying Japanese; to them, as a foreigner, I was as good as it gets.

I am always dubious when I hear that so-and-so is “fluent” in Japanese, especially if they are a westerner. Call me jealous if you must, but these aforementioned responses illustrate a common problem with labeling someone as “fluent” in a given foreign language. Namely, what does the word fluent even mean? It means different things to different people. For me, true fluency in Japanese (or any language for that matter) is the ability to freely switch between reading, writing, or speaking different languages, and have there be a relatively small gap in the quality of personal expression.

That is to say, if I were to suddenly switch and continue this post entirely in Japanese, my word choice, humor, and for a lack of a better word, personality, would be largely unaffected. To me, this is the true sign of a fluent individual and the thing to strive for in foreign language study. できるかな？

If you were sat down in front of a camera or tape recorder and interviewed in a foreign language without the ability to speak English (as I have been), what would the quality of your answers be? Would they be radically different from what you intended? Or, would you find that you could freely articulate all the points and emotions you wanted to? Could you make the interviewer laugh and cry at the appropriate moments during your story? These are the questions that plague those in search of language “fluency.”

I would find myself thinking about these questions from time to time when I was in Japan, usually when I was particularly horny and fantasized about kissing and taking a Japanese woman as my future wife. I began to contemplate, if my wife spoke little or no English, would I be able to articulate my “true self” to the woman I loved? Would I appear as a complete person or just half of the funny, charming, and loveable person I could be were I wooing someone in my native tongue? What about my parents? Could they talk to my wife? Would they be upset if they couldn’t?

It all sounds like a reality show waiting to be pitched. A white guy who speaks no Japanese dates a Japanese woman. Taking a cue from a classic episode of I Love Lucy, he wears a wireless earpiece and is constantly being fed what to say in Japanese to impress her throughout the date. At the end of the show it is revealed that the white guy can’t actually speak any Japanese without the help of the bilingual translator and the girl has to choose whether she still likes him or not.

Allow me to shift gears for a moment and reflect on learning Japanese. People often comment that Japanese must be very hard to learn. It is! Well, parts of it are anyways. I don’t know how hard or easy Japanese ranks in the grand scheme of foreign languages, but I would say to speak Japanese naturally is difficult. I have certainly been kept busy over the past 10 years. I love learning foreign languages because there is always the possibility for improvement – there are always natives to speak to, books to read, and things to write. In this sense the sky’s the limit in terms of language growth if one is committed.

People also ask me why I began studying in the first place. I don’t know exactly why I started studying Japanese but I know why I continue: studying and getting better in the language makes me happy. As a kid, I always liked sushi and videogames, but I don’t think either of those products of Japan particularly spurred my interest in the country. More than anything, I started studying Japanese in middle school because it was radically different from English and because I thought (rightfully so) that it would be fun.

It can sometimes be difficult to be a language major at Stanford – a penguin in a flock of seagulls. A friend once asked me what my major was and I said “Japanese.” She responded, “and what else?” When I said that was it, she immediately started backpedaling and telling me how “cool" Japanese was. I laughed…it was fine. Most people at Stanford view language majors as a light snack before dinner, a fun romp when compared to more rigorous engineering or scientific majors. People often pick up a minor or double-major in Spanish / Portuguese, but will rarely devote their entire course of study to the language. The same can be said in my department where only one other guy besides myself is a “true” Japanese-only major. The rest are double-majors or minors.

I hope there is something to be said for those that dedicate themselves to the study of a different language and culture. I am happy that I have made this a priority during my time at Stanford. I very much believe in learning languages and expanding your cultural horizons. I think that is something that the world needs more of.

Japanese is a wonderful language to study…so is any other! What are you waiting for? Get out there and start learning one!

B.E.W.

Too Late!

While I was searching around the web I found this advertisement for McGriddles. The Japanese reads, 「だれも知らない朝ごはん、はじまる。」 or "The breakfast nobody knows is coming!" When I was in Japan, my beloved McGriddles were nowhere to be found. It seems like they are finally making their way to the land of the rising sun!

About time!

B.E.W.

The King of Beers!

Happy 20th Anniversary Asahi Super Dry!!!

アサヒスーパードライ２０周年:
まだ一番うまいビールだぜ！

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Speaking of Japanese beer, if you ever find a store that sells Hitachino Nest Beer (常陸野ネストビール), DO NOT miss the opportunity to sample a truly wonderful and unique beer unlike any other - guaranteed! The Hitachino beer brand is actually produced by a sake brewery named Kiuchi. They make a series of ales brewed with rice – the result is a crisp, refreshing beer that tastes like sake.

Nest Beer (named so because of the cute owl mascot) comes in two varieties, white rice (白米) and red rice (赤米). Both are incredibly complex and flavorful. I was completely unfamiliar with this brand until I happened to come across it at a beer and wine store specializing in imports. If you happen to find a bottle, don’t miss the opportunity to snag a real drinking jewel!

B.E.W.

Get a Job, Ya’ Bum! (就職活動)

Nowadays every time my cell rings I wonder if it’s the real world calling. I am fast coming to grips with the realization that in a short period of time I will be fresh out of the ‘Stanford bubble’ and charged with the task of finding something to do with my life. This is terrifying to say the least, the stuff of nightmares.

Maybe the guy pictured in the red cap and overalls will be my future employer. Nintendo of Japan slipped five golden tickets into their first one million Wii systems. The lucky soles who find them get to compose videogame music at the Kyoto based headquarters and meet Willy Wonka himself, Super Mario and Legend of Zelda creator Shigeru Miyamoto. Composing game music for Nintendo would be a dream, especially considering my interest in music and entertainment. Is it possible? I don’t know. Is it worth a shot? You bet!

Applying to Japanese companies is a daunting process for a foreigner, made worse by the fact that you begin to doubt if said company is even willing to hire non-Japanese employees to begin with. Most global companies such as Sony, Nintendo, Microsoft, Google, and Amazon.com all have headquarters in Japan that operate autonomously from the American branch. Nintendo of Japan and Nintendo of America are completely different companies and understandably have different job opportunities and management staffs. A typical high school kid who wants to make videogames some day won’t be doing that in Redmond,
Washington, but they might be doing it in Kyoto.

I have the PDF application to be a composer at Nintendo on my computer, but I had to falsely enter personal information into their online database to even get the application. There were no options to receive employment materials if you didn’t have a permanent residence in Japan. Does Nintendo or any Japanese company for that matter want foreigners? I think they do, but one’s way might only come from a Japanese contact within the company or a headhunting firm.

Perhaps I’ll be back at Columbia Music Entertainment in Roppongi. Hey, at least I have friends there already. I have been debating asking my internship coordinator for a job. He also happens to be the director of Human Resources. But would I enjoy my job?

The choice ultimately comes down to what I value more, location or job. If living and working in Japan is my first and most important requirement, then I have to settle for what might not be my dream job. There is a plethora of English teaching and private tutoring jobs available in Tokyo. Other easy-to-enter employment opportunities in Japan include kebab stand operator, tissue packet distributor, and 100 Yen shop manager. At this point I don’t know which I’m leaning towards.

There are plenty of neat companies in Japan such as Miyazaki’s Studio Ghibli and Nana-on-Sha (the makers of the Parappa videogame series) that are just dying to be infiltrated by westerners. But then there’s rock steady U.S.A. Wouldn’t I be crazy not to seek employment in America first? I met the American ex-head of Tower Records Japan while I was working at Columbia. He worked for Tower in California first before they shipped him off to Japan. He rose up the ranks in the Japanese company, ultimately landing at the top, and managed to make the record store chain the most popular in Japan. The same cannot be said for Tower in America which filed for bankruptcy in 2004.

One thing is for certain, however, I miss Japan! With my roommate spending the quarter in Berlin and friends popping off to Australia and South America in the middle of the school year for week long excursions, I really do miss living abroad and I would like to return as soon as possible!

I’ll keep you all posted.

B.E.W.

Happy New Year!

新年明けましておめでとうございます。

Welcome to 2007 everyone! Best wishes for a healthy and happy new year. 2007 is the year of the boar or "inoshishi" (猪) in Japanese.

では、今年も宜しくお願い致します。

B.E.W.

Here is a picture of the Fujiya department store. I happen to think the rainbow coloring and reflective exterior make the building look really neat.

Here is the Pallete Town section of Odaiba island. Is it just me or does Palette Town sound like the central hub in a videogame?

A giant Hello Kitty bounce house in Palette Town.

My mom walking down a typical narrow Tokyo street.

A picture of a similar Tokyo street at night.

Me in a rickshaw at the Edo Tokyo Museum.

Going Home (帰国)

This concludes our broadcast…

While I was away, the bathroom in my Seattle home got a new addition. Staring at this Toto Washlet toilet in my American bathroom, a mirror image of what my rear graced countless times while in Japan, I cannot help but feel that all things come full circle...

A typhoon hit Tokyo during my last week. Tokyo Disney Sea was wet, but when departure day arrived, waves of water rolled down the street near my Asakusa Weekly Mansion and the howling wind was easily audible outside my window. I needed to wire money to my host brother in Kyoto to close out my mobile phone account, so I braved my way through the torrential onslaught, trudging through ankle deep water to a nearby convenience store ATM.

Even with written directions from my host brother on how to transfer money to his account (displayed on my cell phone in Japanese characters), I was still completely baffled by the electronic process and had to enlist the help of the friendly store clerk. He was very patient and I eventually got the money sent after several unsuccessful attempts at punching buttons on the machine myself.

Japanese ATMs also have no deposit or withdrawal limits, so I was able to take all of my summer internship earnings with me in a huge stack of cash – just like an international drug dealer. I left a hundred dollars in the account to keep it open. Now, when I become a super villain, I can rightfully say that I have an “offshore account.”

After the banking was taken care of (and I was thoroughly soaked from the roundtrip), I was ready to check out and head to the airport. Leaving my Asakusa Weekly Mansion was a painless affair. There were no additional charges on my account, so I signed a piece of paper and walked out the door. I can’t say that I was particularly sad to leave my broom closet prison cell.

A special train line runs directly from nearby Ueno to Narita International Airport. The ride was very quick, clocking in at only a little over an hour, but the train cars were absolutely packed with people. I had to stand for ¾ of the ride, smashed in between people and pieces of rolling luggage, as the train sped through the icy rain. Luckily I had shipped my luggage ahead to the airport so I only had to deal with a backpack.

United Airlines only allows two pieces of checked baggage, so I had to pay the equivalent of $170 in yen in order to check my third bag. I was infuriated at the astronomical cost, but there was nothing I could do – the airline had me over a barrel. I spent my time in the airport looking in the shops (they have a whole mall in the airport). There is also an observation field with benches and tables where one can sit and watch the planes take off.

I don’t remember how long the flight back was, but it was certainly shorter than the trip over. I watched several movies and ate the same crummy vegetarian pilaf. Before I knew it, I was staring at a blue customs declaration form on my tray table. I had no idea what to write on the form as I was bringing back suitcases filled with CDs, DVDs, and videogames. Most of my booty was personal gifts or unmarked audio / video product samples from Columbia, so I didn’t know how to accurately estimate their value on the form. I filled in some ballpark prices and took a gamble that the customs agents wouldn’t care.

In customs, one particularly annoying male agent decided to harass any person under the age of 25. He paced around the group and interrogated any college-age kid he could find. Things went well once I told him I was a Stanford student and started gushing about my summer internship at Columbia, after he asked me to describe what I did in Japan. Not knowing anything about Japan, the agent quickly disengaged me. He stared at my blue form with the itemization “CDs / DVDs = $500” and then stared at me. “Five hundred dollars huh? That’s how much it cost? You’re not bringing back like hundreds of CDs are ya?”

I didn’t have the heart to tell him that he was actually correct – Instead, I told him that CDs and DVDs are very expensive in Japan (which isn’t a lie). All things considered, customs was just fine. The only things the authorities seemed concerned with were powdered or liquid curry packets. Since I didn’t have either, I was home free.

…I am now in my senior year at Stanford, and busy myself with advanced coursework in Japanese language and literature, preparing for the Ministry of Education’s national proficiency exam. I am also writing an honors thesis for my major on the subject of the all-female Takarazuka Revue Theatre Company.

I hope that my stories were funny and entertaining when they needed to be, but also educational and inspiring as well. If you enjoyed my adventures and learned something new about Japan, then I did a good job. Japan is truly a country unlike any other in the world and a place that I love dearly. I urge all of you to experience it first hand. What are you waiting for? Make your own adventures!

Finally, I would like to thank all of the friends, family members, and strangers who read, commented on, and enjoyed A White Boy in Japan. Usually blogs like this only benefit school friends and grandparents. I feel privileged to have had people from all over the world reading my musings.

This blog will remain active and open from now on. It is now possible to read my entire adventure from beginning to end! While frequent updates on the site will drop to a minimum, I will post any and all new information regarding my senior thesis, Japan job search, and future Japan trips on this website, so please don’t forget the address!

I will leave you with my favorite Japanese quote, straight from the special edition DVD poster:

「自分が見えない時は、ライオンキングを見ればいい」

“When you forget who you are, watch Disney’s The Lion King.”

Thank you for reading.

Most Sincerely,

Benjamin Evan Whaley
A White Boy in Japan

Coming soon to an American bathroom near you!