Through The Looking Glass (直島)

One hour off the coast of Takamatsu by ferry lies the island of Naoshima, one of the strangest and most wonderful places I have visited in all of Japan.

Naoshima is an island dedicated to the appreciation of modern art. There are large and small art galleries and museums scattered along the many windy island roads. The atmosphere certainly didn't feel like Japan. Come to think of it, it didn't much feel like any place I have visited before.

In addition to the formal galleries, Naoshima is home to a plethora of outdoor installation pieces. Some are in plain view, others are hidden away in secluded clearings. Walking along a seemingly normal beach only to come face-to-face with a giant yellow pumpkin is a common occurrence here.

The three museums I visited while on the island were the Benesse House Museum of modern art, the Chichu Art Museum, and the Art House Project.

The Benesse House Museum was everything one would expect from a modern art museum. Pieces there utilized country license plates, neon lights, charcoal, and sticks. Any further description of the art from me will likely result in complete and utter unintelligibility.

Of the three I visited, "Chichu" was my least favorite gallery due to the overly pompous staff members and the fact that I had to take off my shoes three times while going into the different exhibition rooms. The stars of the show were three Monet paintings displayed in a giant solid white room illuminated only by natural sunlight. While I wasn't a fan Chichu's sophisticated museum experience, I must concede that the Monet room was quite stunning.

Finally the "Art House Project" was a series of traditional Japanese wooden houses (called kadoya or machiya) outfitted with lights and sculptures, effectively turning them into giant walk-in art pieces. I found this gallery (if you can call it that) to be the most interesting of the bunch.

As if trying to describe Narnia, Hogwarts, or Wonderland after the fact, I find that words fail to convey the energy and vividness behind what I saw and experienced. Take a look at the pictures below, perhaps they will do a better job.

If you ever find yourself in Takamatsu, a daytrip to Naoshima is a MUST. It is quite simply a place unlike any other you will visit.

B.E.W.